Uncategorized

How about 6 x 7.5 inch can for hydrogen line? How does that compare with a can 160mm diameter x 165 mm height?

How about 6 x 7.5 inch can for hydrogen line?

Short answer: you can use a 6″ × 7.5″ can-sized aperture, but it’s very small for the 1420.40575 MHz hydrogen line — expect only a few dBi of gain and much lower sensitivity than a typical amateur 1 m+ dish. If you’re actually switching to the antenna you described (two cables joined in the middle, suspended between poles, feed dropping to the radio/computer), that’s basically a centre-fed half-wave dipole — which is a sensible, simple option. Below are the concrete numbers and practical suggestions.

Numbers (1420.40575 MHz)

  • wavelength λ ≈ 0.211 m ≈ 8.31 in.
  • A 6 in × 7.5 in aperture = 0.1524 m × 0.1905 m → area ≈ 0.0290 m².
  • Equivalent circular diameter ≈ 0.192 m (≈ 7.6 in).
  • With a reasonable aperture efficiency (~55%) that aperture would give a gain ≈ 4.5 (≈ 6.5 dBi).
  • Half-power beamwidth (approx.) ≈ 64° — very wide, poor angular resolution.
  • Collected area is only ≈ 3.7% of a 1-m diameter dish, so raw sensitivity is much lower.

If you build the two-cable centre-fed antenna (dipole)

This matches your “two cables joined in middle, held aloft on poles, single cable drops to floor and goes to computer” description:

  • Make it a half-wave dipole: total length ≈ λ = 8.31 in (211 mm).
    • Each arm ≈ 4.155 in (105.5 mm) from feedpoint to tip.
  • Feedpoint: a plain dipole in free space has about 73 Ω feed impedance.
    • Use a 1:1 balun (common-mode choke or ferrite sleeve) at the center to stop the feedline radiating and to present the dipole properly to your 50 Ω receiver.
    • You can connect the dipole (via the balun) directly to 50 Ω — mismatch is small and usually acceptable for a simple setup; if needed add a small matching network.
  • Mounting: suspend horizontally (for linear horizontal polarization) or vertically for vertical pol. Keep it clear of nearby metal/structures for best performance.
  • Height: several λ above ground is ideal, but even a metre or two will work for a stable beam. Height changes the ground-gain and pattern.
  • Filtering & LNA: because the aperture is small, use a low-noise amplifier (LNA) at the feed and a narrowband filter centered on 1420.40575 MHz to improve SNR.

Practical tradeoffs & suggestions

  • The dipole is easy, cheap, and broadband — good for experiments and monitoring HI if you accept lower sensitivity.
  • If you need more sensitivity for faint galactic HI or narrow spectral work, consider:
    • larger aperture (bigger reflector or larger rectangular aperture) — even ~0.5–1 m diameter gives a huge improvement in collected power.
    • Or a directional Yagi (several elements) designed for 1.42 GHz — a compact Yagi can get you higher gain than the tiny can/dipole while remaining portable.
  • Always use a band-pass filter and LNA near the antenna for hydrogen-line work when using small apertures — that helps recover weak signals.
  • If you keep the can physically (as a short cylindrical backing) you could still mount the dipole in front of it as a simple reflector/ground plane, but the tiny can won’t add much unless carefully designed as a tuned cavity/horn.

Is the above better or a can that is 160mm diameter x 165 mm height?

Short answer: the 6″ × 7.5″ (152.4 × 190.5 mm) aperture is the better performer — it collects ~44% more power and gives ~1.6 dB more gain and a noticeably narrower beam than the 160 mm-diameter can (160 × 165 mm).

Numbers (carefully worked out)

  • wavelength at 1420.40575 MHz: λ ≈ 0.211 m (8.31 in) (same as before).
  • 6.0″ × 7.5″ aperture: physical area = 0.0290322 m².
  • 160 mm diameter can: physical area = 0.0201062 m².
  • Assuming an aperture efficiency η = 0.55 (typical for small, imperfect apertures):
    • effective area (6×7.5): A_eff = 0.0159677 m².
    • effective area (160 mm dia): A_eff = 0.0110584 m².
  • Predicted linear gain (4πA_eff/λ²):
    • 6×7.5: 4.507 → ≈ 6.54 dBi.
    • 160 mm dia: 3.121 → ≈ 4.94 dBi.
  • Gain ratio: 4.507 / 3.121 ≈ 1.444 → the rectangular aperture collects about 44% more power.
  • dB difference: ≈ 1.59 dB (6×7.5 better).
  • Approximate half-power beamwidth (rule of thumb HPBW ≈ 70·λ/D):
    • 6×7.5 (equivalent circular diameter ≈ 0.1923 m): ≈ 77°.
    • 160 mm dia: ≈ 92°.
      So the 6×7.5 aperture is significantly more directional (narrower).

Practical points & caveats

  • Aperture area dominates for simple open apertures: the 6×7.5 rectangle has substantially larger area so it’s the better choice for raw sensitivity and gain.
  • The height of the can (165 mm) only matters if you plan to use the can as a tuned cavity, short horn, or ground-plane — otherwise it has little direct effect on aperture-gain which is governed by the opening area.
  • A circular can can be convenient mechanically (fits coax/waveguide easily), and a deeper can might be formed into a small horn or used as a partial cavity to improve pattern or reduce backlobes — but designing a useful horn/cavity at 1.42 GHz requires care; a 160 mm dia × 165 mm height is quite small and won’t magically beat a larger open aperture.
  • If you’re switching to the two-cable centre-fed dipole you mentioned previously, remember the dipole’s effective area is much smaller than either of these cans — the cans (acting as simple apertures or backing reflectors) will generally outperform a lone short dipole unless you add an LNA and very good filtering.

Recommendation

  • If your goal is maximum sensitivity from small, easily fabricated hardware: use the 6″ × 7.5″ aperture (the rectangular can/open aperture).
  • If you need a physically neat, round enclosure for mechanical reasons or to try making a small horn/cavity, the 160 mm dia can is fine — but expect ~1.6 dB less gain than the 6×7.5 option.
  • In either case, add a bandpass filter and a low-noise amplifier at the feed to recover as much SNR as you can from these small apertures.

The diameter of the 6 inch diameter can might be the outside diameter so the actual internal diameter may only be 145mm. Does that change the analysis?

Yes — if the actual internal diameter is 145 mm that does change the numbers, and it makes the small can noticeably worse than the 160 mm can. I recalculated with λ ≈ 0.211 m (1420.40575 MHz) and a representative aperture efficiency η = 0.55.

Quick numbers (internal aperture area → gain)

  • 6.0″ × 7.5″ rectangular opening (152.4 × 190.5 mm)
    • Area = 0.02903 m² → A_eff = 0.01597 m² → Gain ≈ 4.51 (6.54 dBi).
  • 160 mm diameter can (internal diameter = 160 mm)
    • Area = 0.02011 m² → A_eff = 0.01106 m² → Gain ≈ 3.12 (4.94 dBi).
  • 145 mm internal diameter can (your updated number)
    • Area = 0.01651 m² → A_eff = 0.00908 m² → Gain ≈ 2.56 (4.09 dBi).

What that means

  • The 145 mm internal can collects ~21.8% less power than the 160 mm can (and is ~75.8% less than the 6×7.5 opening). In dB: the 145 mm can is about 0.85 dB down on the 160 mm can and ~2.45 dB down on the 6×7.5 aperture.
  • So: if the inside diameter is 145 mm, the 160 mm can is the better circular choice. The rectangular 6″×7.5″ opening still wins by a clear margin for raw sensitivity and gain.

Practical reminder

  • These numbers assume η ≈ 0.55 — if your real aperture is better or worse (due to edges, depth, feed losses, or using it as a short horn/cavity), the relative ranking can shift slightly, but area dominates at this scale.
  • If you plan to use the can as a small horn/cavity, depth and precise shaping can improve pattern and front-to-back ratio; that may partially compensate for smaller area but requires careful design.

The can will be used as a waveguide/feed for my 160mm dish. Does this change things?

Short answer: yes — using the can as a short circular waveguide / horn feed for your 160 mm dish is a good approach and will usually give better illumination control and pattern (less spillover, better forward gain) than simply sticking a bare dipole in front of the dish. Below I give the concrete EM checks and practical, buildable starting dimensions so you can try it and tune quickly.


1) Is the can a usable waveguide at 1420.40575 MHz?

Yes. the dominant circular-waveguide mode (TE₁₁) cutoff frequency for a circular bore of the sizes you mentioned is well below 1420 MHz, so the can will propagate TE₁₁ and can be used as a feed/waveguide section.

Calculated numbers (rounded):

  • For 160 mm internal diameter:
    • TE₁₁ cutoff ≈ 1,098 MHz → well below 1420 MHz.
    • Guide wavelength λg ≈ 0.333 m (333 mm).
  • For 145 mm internal diameter:
    • TE₁₁ cutoff ≈ 1,212 MHz → still below 1420 MHz.
    • Guide wavelength λg ≈ 0.404 m (404 mm).

So both diameters support propagation at 1420 MHz; the 160 mm bore is further above cutoff (a bit “less dispersive”), which is generally helpful for simpler matching and slightly smaller guide wavelength.


2) Practical feed design — simple, reliable starter recipe

These are practical starting dimensions you can build quickly and then tune with an SWR meter / VNA or by measuring SNR on the receiver.

  1. Waveguide-to-coax probe + backshort (easy, commonly used):
    • Make a circular backshort (metal end plate) at the back of the can.
    • Backshort distance (from probe to short) — start with ≈ λg / 4:
      • 160 mm can → ~83 mm from probe to backshort.
      • 145 mm can → ~101 mm from probe to backshort.
    • Feed probe: bring the centre conductor of a short length of coax through the side wall so the probe tip extends into the bore pointing toward the axis (a “radial/side” probe couples nicely to TE₁₁).
      • Start with probe axial insertion of 20–30 mm inside the bore (this is a starting point — you will shorten/lengthen slightly while tuning).
    • Use the coax shield bonded to the can (ensure a solid RF seal).
    • Put a small dielectric (PTFE or foam) support for the coax if needed.
  2. Open-ended can (short horn) — simpler but a little less matchable):
    • Use the can as a short cylindrical horn (open at the front, backshort at some distance). The open end illuminates the dish.
    • Try a backshort a little deeper than the λg/4 starting point and experiment ±10–20 mm to optimise return loss and dish illumination.
  3. Choke / rim treatment:
    • To reduce edge currents and control spillover, consider adding a simple choke ring (one or two circumferential grooves or a flange at the can rim) or a small lip (10–20 mm) around the open end. This improves pattern and front-to-back ratio.
  4. Illumination & taper:
    • Aim for an edge taper around −10 to −12 dB at the dish rim for a good balance of aperture efficiency vs spillover. That comes from the geometry of the open can vs dish focal length — you’ll tune the probe/backshort to get the desired illumination pattern. For a very small dish (160 mm) over-illumination is easy — so reduce the feed power radiated at wide angles.
  5. Match to 50 Ω:
    • Expect to need some tuning. The probe + backshort is a tried method — adjust probe length and backshort position to get the best S11. If you have an SWR meter or VNA you can tune to S11 < −10 dB across a narrow band around 1420 MHz.
  6. LNA & filtering:
    • Place a low-noise amplifier (LNA) as close to the feed as practicable (inside/at the back of the can) and a narrow bandpass filter centered at 1420.40575 MHz ahead of the receiver. This significantly improves system sensitivity, especially with a small dish.

3) Which bore (145 mm vs 160 mm) is preferable as the feed?

  • 160 mm internal bore is the easier, more forgiving choice: it is further above cutoff, has a shorter λg (so a shorter backshort), and typically yields a better match and slightly broader usable bandwidth for a simple probe/backshort feed.
  • 145 mm bore will work, but it’s closer to cutoff, giving a longer λg and a longer backshort distance (≈ 101 mm) — matching may be slightly more sensitive to probe position and physical tolerances.

In short: if you can use the 160 mm internal bore, do so. It’s more convenient and slightly more robust.


4) Expected performance / why this is better than a bare dipole

  • A short waveguide or short-horn feed controls the radiation pattern so the dish is more uniformly illuminated and spillover is reduced → higher aperture efficiency and better system temperature for dish-based reception.
  • The can-waveguide feed will therefore likely increase system gain and SNR versus a bare dipole placed in front of the dish, provided you match it reasonably and use an LNA/filters.

5) Quick checklist for building and tuning

  • Use the 160 mm internal can if available. If only the 145 mm version is at hand, you can work with it — expect more tuning.
  • Start with backshort ≈ λg/4 (83 mm for 160 mm can; 101 mm for 145 mm can).
  • Insert a coax probe through the sidewall, tip projecting ≈ 20–30 mm into the bore; shield bonded to can.
  • Add an LNA right at the feed and a 1420 MHz bandpass filter after the LNA.
  • Tune probe length / backshort position while monitoring S11 or receiver SNR; add a small rim flange/choke if spillover is high.
  • If you have a VNA, aim for S11 < −12 dB across a few MHz centered on 1420.40575 MHz.

If you want, I can do one of the following next (pick one) and I’ll give the full step-by-step drawing and parts list ready for you to build:

  1. A labelled construction drawing (dimensions) for a 160 mm internal can feed with probe & backshort positions.
  2. The same drawing tuned for a 145 mm internal can.
  3. A short comparison showing expected aperture efficiency / edge taper if you mount that feed at the focal point of your 160 mm dish (I’ll need the dish focal length or F/D ratio — if you don’t have it I’ll assume F/D = 0.4 and show both cases).

The edge of the base where it joins sides of 160cm can are slightly curved. Does that matter?

Ah, yes — a small curvature at the base where the sides meet the bottom does matter slightly, but in practice it’s not a showstopper. Here’s a careful breakdown:


1) What the curvature actually does

  • A perfect circular waveguide assumes a sharp 90° junction at the base (or a smooth backshort wall) so the TE₁₁ mode reflects predictably.
  • If the edge is slightly curved or rounded, a few things happen:
    1. The effective internal diameter at that point is slightly smaller.
    2. The field distribution near the backshort is slightly perturbed.
    3. For a short waveguide (~a few cm long for your 1420 MHz feed), this can slightly shift the backshort position needed for best matching.

2) Magnitude of effect

  • For small curvature (a few mm radius on a 160 mm bore), the effect on impedance and mode is minor.
  • The TE₁₁ cutoff and guide wavelength barely change.
  • You may need to move the probe back a few mm or adjust the backshort slightly to get the best S11.
  • This is exactly why short-cylindrical waveguide feeds are usually tuned experimentally rather than relying purely on theoretical formulas — the final backshort/probe combination is found by trial for minimum reflection.

3) Practical takeaway

  • The curvature will not prevent the feed from working.
  • Expect to adjust the probe length and/or backshort position by a few mm compared with the “ideal” flat-bottom formulas.
  • If the curvature is extreme (say, a 10–15 mm radius), it may reduce the effective aperture slightly or create small higher-order mode effects, but for your described cans (slight curve), this is negligible.

✅ How to compensate

  1. Build the probe and backshort with a small adjustable range: e.g., make the probe mount adjustable by ±5–10 mm and backshort movable or with shims.
  2. Measure S11 or receiver signal while adjusting.
  3. Fine-tune until you get best reflection (< −10 dB) and best dish illumination.

Bottom line: Slight curvature at the base is normal for commercial cans; just plan a bit of tuning. Your 160 mm can is still the better choice for a dish feed over the 145 mm can.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.